We'd heard good things about the snorkeling and wildlife on Isla Isabela so Rosie and I decided to take a three week trip up to there before preparing for the passage to Hawaii. The trip north to the island was about 80 miles with two stops. The first stop was the trusty anchorage at Punta Mita. We tacked close hauled for 6 hours to cover the 8nm (as the crow flies) from La Cruz to Punta Mita. After one night there, we headed to our favorite stop Chacala for St Patrick's Day weekend. The crew of Lilo was there to greet us when we arrived at 10 pm Friday night. St. Patricks Day is a big deal in Mexico; there were more people (maybe double) on the beach than at any other time we've been there. There were tour buses on the narrow dirt and cobblestone Main Street and the camp ground was packed where previously there were only a handful of cars.

During our brief stay in Chacala we took a great hike to Las Cavas (The Caves). Las Cavas is supposed to be great snorkeling, but we never found it. Instead we ended up at another lovely little spot where we could dip our toes in the water.

Anyways...three lovely days in Chacala with multiple stops at Chac Mool and we headed 40 miles overnight to Isla Isabela. We had light west winds that allowed us to sail slowly for 24 hours, (with a great 2330 wind shift in our favor) tacking just a few times to get us there in the late morning. We joined Lilo in the east anchorage near Las Monas - we're not following them though it might appear so. We have since parted ways - they're going north to Oregon, we're going west.

We'd been told the East anchorage on Isla Isabela is an 'anchor eater' so we tied to the anchor a trip line with a fender to float the line to the top. Fortunately the water in the anchorage is so clear we could see all the way to the bottom 25 feet below. It turned out the trip line wasn't long enough - causing the anchor to drag along the bottom rather than set in the sand - so I jumped in the water and added another line to extend it. Turns out I'm pretty good at the underwater bowline. While I was still in the water Rosie backed down on the anchor again and this time it set.

We stayed for 4 days. We snorkeled every day. We landed peeps on the beach to hike around the island and check out the blue footed boobies and their hatchlings. The boobies nest right on the beach so after landing the dink and pulling it 10 yards up the beach we saw a line of boobie nests, some still with eggs but many with little birds snuggling close to the adult tending to the nest. They didn't mind that we walked close to take photos and pass by to get to the hiking trail.

There weren't many people on the island. There is a fishing village on the south end with maybe a dozen-20 people. Then there's a bird research station with 2 folks on the east side of the island near the anchorage. The only people we saw on our 2 hour hike were from a cruising boat in the south anchorage- they told us how much they liked San Blas. The hike was spectacular. Iguanas, frigate birds and blue footed boobies were everywhere. This place definitely lives up to its reputation as the Galapagos of Mexico.

In addition to the folks we met on the hike, our friends Jodie and Darren had also recommended San Blas. With two positive reviews that's where we headed after Isla Isabela.

After the last of the visitors departed, it was time to get back to the boat. We have started thinking about what we need to do before we jump the puddle in April. Before our last bit of gunkholing around Mexico we felt we could cross a few items off our list.

Item 1: The Life Raft

A few guys in La Cruz will check out your life rafts and refill any of the pull release canisters if needed. Before our coastal cruise down here we bought an old soft pack life raft really intended for small aircraft. It fits perfectly under our companionway stairs. On the downside we figured out its circa 1950 with the canisters last filled in 1975. Hmmm...good thing we didn't need it. We decided to pull the release and see what happened...and it actually filled the raft. See we would have been fine.

However we are usure if this would hold up way out in the middle of the pacific. We were fortunate to find a cruiser looking to unload a 6 person ocean ready life raft with accessories (first aid kit, water, hand paddles, etc). The canister has just been refilled and its ready to go! It's quite a bit larger but we'll be able to strap it in front of our mast.

Item 2: Cockpit Cushions

Don't laugh! Comfort of the crew is important, especially on a four week crossing. We found a local business who does boat covers and commissioned them to make a long cushion for each side of the cockpit. We'll pick these up when we return to the marina around April 1.

Items 3 and 4: Communication Upgrades

These came with the friends and family visits from the states (ordered via Amazon). We have added a hand held VHF and a gadget called the Delorme inReach. The handheld was added for easier communication from the cockpit as well as the ability to take this in the life raft if something that drastic should occur. We added the inReach which connects via satellite and gives us the ability to share our location and communicate via short email and text messages to friends and family. We set up an account and plan to test this over the next month before we leave. This also has an SOS function and will back up our EPIRB.

With these off our list we provisioned for a few weeks and left the marina to do a bit more exploring before we jump the puddle. Destination Isla Isabela.

Visitors!!! Alicia arrived first. We met her at PV airport and headed back to Sayulita for a week in a beach bungalow. Amy met us a few days later.

The food in Sayulita was amazing from the street tacos to Burrrito Revolution to the beach donut vendor. And did I mention the churro man? Amazing!! We even had a little kitchen where we made good use of una licuadora for smoothies in the morning with mangos and yaca.

Hey when you live on a small boat, it's the little things you appreciate (like a real bed too). We didn't spend the entire time eating, there was plenty of lazing at the beach. We also made it out to La Cruz for Sunday market and a day cruise with the sisters where the wildlife in the bay did not disappoint. Thanks for sharing some of your pics Amy.

The next wave of visitors hailed from our home port of San Diego. They came in a pack of 6 plus an Uncle. We spent the next 5 days eating and drinking to our hearts content at an all inclusive on the beach of Nuevo Vallarta. One evening we took a water taxi to PV proper and indulged in some fabulous Thai food from Archie's Wok...not a taco on the menu!

It was a wonderful visit with family and friends. Thanks Alicia, Amy, Kevin, Janet, Dennis, Lindsay, Bob, Candace, and Uncle Carroll.

Dave and I were itching to get out on the sea again. We decided a few days at anchor before our visitors arrived were necessary. After our return from Guadalajara and a birthday celebration for Will on Thalassi, we loaded up the boat and headed to Islas Tres Marietas where we heard the snorkeling could be great.

We pulled in on a Friday evening and grabbed one of the few bright orange mooring balls provided for boaters by the national park. It was a lovely sunset with a dinner from our favorite chicken spot in La Cruz, Tu Pollo. We awoke early, had a lovely breakfast of Dave's pancakes, saw the water was a bit choppy and cool yet for a snorkel and proceeded with a lazy morning. It seems this meant a post breakfast nap for me. I awoke to Dave having a very stern discussion with someone. I peeked my head out and the little bay was full of boats and people, snorkeling, paddle boarding, kayaking and generally having a good time. Apparently one of the tour boats was in need of the mooring ball and they were not taking no for an answer. Rather than share the mooring with a rather large boat we took off for anchorage across the way at Punt Mita where we spent the next couple nights very relaxed. We headed back to La Cruz and the arrival of our guests.

After lunch on Valentine's Day Rosie and I sat in the marina lounge with nothing much to do. She did a little research on the internet and found out that Chivas was playing at home in Guadalaraja two days later. We make a habit of catching a soccer game in every country we visit, so we decided we'd have a little weekend side trip.

The following morning we borrowed a Lonely Planet travel guide, packed a backpack, and headed to the bus station. The local bus took us from La Cruz to the airport for less than $4US. A mile walk brought us to the long haul bus terminal - very nice place, comparable to an airport in the US. $160 got us two first class roundtrip tickets aboard an ETN bus to Guadalajara. We were on our way!

This was a posh bus. There were 24 seats, three per row, with two restrooms in the back. It was more comfortable than the time I flew first class. The legroom was almost enough to let me straighten my legs and the seat was tall enough that I could sit up and still have something to rest my head against (to rest my head on an airplane, I tilt my chin up so that I'm looking straight up). Each seat had a T.V. with a bunch of on-demand sort of stuff to watch. The bus even had WiFi. I was happy just sitting in the comfy seat staring out the window at the countryside.

Five and half hours later we arrived at Guadalajara's Nueva Central Camionera. We boarded a local bus labeled 'Centro' to take us to the Historical Center of town. We didn't make hotel reservations and the hotel we wanted to stay in was full so we had to walk around town for an hour before we saw one we liked - Gran Hotel Los Reyes. The hotel wasn't too expensive and the room was decent but the neighborhood wasn't very friendly at night. If we visit again we'll stay in a different part of town.

The following day was devoted to getting from the hotel to Estadio Omnilife, the home of Chivas. The game was at 5pm and we left the hotel at 10am. The travel guide said we could take an electric bus to the stadium, but the streets were closed to cars for much of the day to allow cyclists and runners to do their thing in safety. Bummer.

We walked on the closed street hoping to find the end of the closure. We stopped to rest. Then we walked some more. At about 2pm we finally found the end of the closure but then the busses wouldn't stop for us - and we were waiting at a bus stop!

The hotel was 11 miles from the stadium and we walked about 7 of it. For lunch we had Chinese in the food court of a ritzy mall and then took an inexpensive taxi the rest of the way to the stadium. We got some really good tickets for 400 pesos each and walked into the stadium 90 minutes before the game.

Chivas won 2-1 over Queretaro. Besides the fact that the game was soccer and the language spanish the experience was much like going to an American sporting event. A 24oz Tecate Light was 75 pesos and I didn't have to get out of my seat to get a refill. The stadium and the parking lot were cleaner than the few times I've been to Qualcomm Stadium. There were no flares at this game unlike the game we went to in Livorno a few years ago.

After the game we took a taxi back to Centro for dinner, beer, a few rounds of tequila and finally bed. In the morning we got on yet another bus back to Nueva Central Camionera and then it was 5 hours back to Puerto Vallarta.

This little two day adventure was a blast. We didn't see any gringos at the game or in town so we feel like it was a rather authentic experience. It will likely be our only stop in "real" Mexico this year, but we'd like to go back and explore more on another trip.